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The warm October sun was shining brightly as we arrived in the French port of Cannes, home to one of the biggest film festivals in the world, and a venerable playground for the rich and famous.

However, much to my wife’s chagrin, we hadn’t come here to rub shoulders with stars like Tom Cruise and Brat Pitt, or to stroll along the sparkling Boulevard de la Croisette in search of diamonds and designer fashions. Instead, we had chosen to explore the nearby medieval village of Saint-Paul de Vence further along the coast to the east. (My credit card was grateful!)

If getting somewhere is half the fun, then the bus trip through Cannes – which is known as the “crown jewel of the French Riviera” — was an excursion in itself.  As we watched from the windows of our coach, we rolled past street after street lined with exclusive boutiques, spreading palm trees, trendy bistros and swanky casinos. And despite the onset of fall, the city’s toney yacht clubs were still packed with beautiful people and their gigantic yachts. Even in off season, this place puts a capital “C” in the word “Chic!”

Eventually, our bus climbed into the interior and we caught a glimpse of the French Riviera’s other jewel – the magnificent village of Saint-Paul de Vence. Perched on a rocky outcrop some 180 metres above sea level, Saint-Paul is framed by the foothills of the Alps and surrounded by thick medieval walls. The streets of village are so narrow and hilly that it can be explored only on foot, so our coach dropped us off near the Chapel of Sainte-Claire and we entered the town through an opening in its fortified walls known as the Porte de Vence.

We learned that Saint-Paul dates back to the Iron Age (circa 1000 BC), and has had to defend itself from various foes over the centuries, including the Saracens in the 10^th century. This eventually resulted in the construction of a castle, of which only the dungeons remain, and a wide, enclosing fortified wall. 

Today, the medieval town is mainly a colony for artists and a haven for tourists, who are drawn to Saint-Paul by its beautiful location, wonderful Provencal sunlight, and splendid views of the surrounding countryside. A rabbit warren of narrow, twisting cobblestone streets, pictureseque archways and stone staircases, the town provides fabulous views from the ramparts.  Restaurants, cafes, art galleries, boutiques and modern statuary mix easily with medieval masonry and stone artifacts. 

After strolling through town, we stumbled upon the Grande Fountaine in a square near the Courtine St. Anne, where there’s an old public fountain and wash house built in 1850. Above the square, there’s also a quaint bistro, where we stopped to admire the view, sip a cappuccino and share a croissant au chocolat.

We wandered further into the labyrinth of narrow streets and eventually found the Museum of Saint-Paul, which opened in 1964 and contains works by some of the famous artists who have lived here, including Picasso, Rodin, and Chagall.  Then we walked down to the museum of local history, which has a wonderful exhibit by local photographer Jacques Gomot. He has captured on film many of the famous international stars who have lived in or visited Saint-Paul, including Roger Moore, Tony Curtis, Sophia Loren and Paul Newman. 

We had now been in Saint-Paul for two hours, and it was time to find our bus for the return trip to the ship. As we left through the Port de Vence, we paused for a moment to reflect on why so many artists and celebrities had been drawn to this tiny village over the years when the excitement of Cannes was just 45 minutes down the coast.  

We decided the answer could be found in the peace and tranquility of strolling through a medieval village filled with history and art that seemed far removed from the hustle and bustle of modern Cannes.  Perhaps the Latin motto inscribed on Saint-Paul’s bell tower says it best: “hora est iam de sommo suggere,” which translates as “The hours invite us to dream.”

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