Register | Forgot Password? | Customer Service

A bright, richly hued rainbow rose out of the Pacific Ocean as the Golden Princess dropped its anchor in the gentle waters of Lahaina Harbor. It had rained most of the night, but as we ferried ashore in tenders, the warm Hawaiian sun begin to burn off the early morning mist to reveal Maui’s verdant valleys and soaring peaks.  

Once the home port for bible-thumping missionaries and bawdy sailors from America’s Pacific whaling fleet, Lahaina today is a popular resort town filled with New England-style buildings, many of which date back to the 1800s. It’s also the town that was featured in the epic movies “Hawaii” and “The Hawaiians” which chronicled the American colonization of this Polynesian paradise.

The second largest island in Hawaii, Maui was formed several million years ago by the eruption of Mounts Haleakala and Puu Kukui, whose lava flows created a land mass filled with fertile valleys between their two peaks – hence its nickname the “Valley Isle.”  The island is arguably the most beautiful in the Hawaiian archipelago, at least according to locals who like to tell visitors that “Maui no ka oi” (Maui is the best).

There’s lots of fantastic scenery in Maui, including Haleakala National Park some 10,000 feet above sea level.  However, we decided to focus our day driving along the island’s west and north coasts, starting with the Road to Hana which begins in the town of Paia.

One of the most spectacular routes in the world,  the heavenly Road to Hana winds around the north coast of Maui past canopies of lush vegetation, thundering waterfalls and steep cliffs that overlook a ragged coastline filled with crashing surf. The route features 617 turns, 56 one-way bridges and dozens of tiny lookouts where we were able to pull over, marvel at the spectacular views and breathe in the fresh scent of guava and ginger.

There are plenty of fruit stands along the way, including one called “Twin Falls” where there’s a dirt trail behind a shack leading to a pair of waterfalls that spill into a beautiful emerald pool. After wading through several streams to and from the falls, we treated ourselves to a batch of local bananas and some sugarcane juice laced with fresh-squeezed lemon.

While the Road to Hana is just 55 miles from Paia, it’s so narrow and windy that we could rarely travel at more than 20 miles an hour. As a result, we decided to turn back about half-way to Hana to save time for the journey up to Maui’s “Upcountry” on the west facing slope of Mount Haleakala. Along the way, we drove past purple jacaranda, wild hibiscus and expansive ranches where Hawaiian cowboys still tend cattle and work the fields.

We had planned to drive all the way up to Haleakala Crater, but the morning mist was still engulfing the island’s highest peaks. So we decided to head for Kahului and drive back to Lahaina along a small, twisting “unimproved road” called Route 340.  It was a decision we almost regretted and one that would later give my wife nightmares.

Most of Highway 340 is a narrow, country road that clings to the edge of sheer cliffs along the northwest coast of Maui. In many sections it has blind hairpin turns and room for just one lane of traffic without so much as three inches of shoulder. In fact, at one point we got stuck in a harrowing stand off as cars heading in both directions convened in the same stretch of cliff-side road and forced us to the outside edge of the precipice.

Of course, this 20-mile stretch of torturous coastal road also provides some of the most stunning scenery in the world. For example, as we climbed the winding roads up and down the various seaside cliffs, all we could see were rocky promontories, pounding surf, and golden beaches surrounded by sparkling blue water. In some ways, this stretch of highway is the way the Road to Hana must have been before it was widened and paved all the way to Hana.

As a result, by the time we left the highway and arrived at Kaanapali Beach, we were more than ready for lunch and a relaxing libation. We chose to dine at the Cane & Taro in Whalers Village, a delightful seaside restaurant with an open-air patio and a spectacular view of the ocean and surrounding beaches.  

After some delicious Mahi Mahi salad and lychee martinis, we made our way back to nearby Lahaina where we boarded the tender for our ship. It would have been nice to spend more time in Kaanapali, especially since the west coast of Maui is famous for its beautiful beaches and resorts.  

However, we had seen enough of this Polynesian paradise to know why it had attracted so many sailors to its shores in the 1880s. And why the Hawaiians who live here still believe that “Maui no ka oi.”

A light veil of mist hovered above Kauai’s verdant mountains as the warm Pacific sun began to rise on pretty Nawiliwili Bay. We had just arrived on the Garden Isle, and we were anxious to begin our exploration of Hawaii’s oldest and most majestic looking island.

Five million years of rain, wind, surf and volcanic eruptions have worked their magic on Kauai, creating an unspoiled paradise where lush vegetation, thundering waterfalls and deep canyons are framed by pristine beaches and dramatic sea cliffs. And the fiercely independent people of this isolated island have kept it that way by resisting development – in fact, local building rules prohibit any structure to be taller than a coconut tree.

While Kauai is a relatively small island, it has lots of stunning scenery, most of which can be seen by driving along a highway that encircles most of the island. The exceptions are Napali, a 15-mile stretch of dramatic cliffs and dreamy beaches along the north coast, and Mount Waialeale, a 5,148-ft high extinct volcano in the centre of the island which is the wettest spot on earth. These two destinations are not accessible by car, and the best way to see them is by helicopter, particularly for those with limited time on the island.

The helicopter tour is fantastic, but since we had done it before, we decided to rent a car and drive north to Wailua Falls, and then west to the magnificent Waimea Canyon.

Surrounded by lush vegetation, the Wailua Falls are so picturesque that they were used in the opening sequences of the old television show “Fantasy Island.” But the thundering cascade also served a more serious purpose in ancient times – it was used by young Hawaiian men who would jump from the top of the waterfall and plunge 83-feet into the bubbling river below to prove their courage.

We took a pass on the cliff diving and made our way along the beautiful south coast of Kauai past sandy beaches and dense vegetation into the spectacular Waimea Canyon. Sculpted out of the mountains over the centuries by the powerful Waimea River and lava flows from Mount Waialeale, the resulting gorge is so spectacular that Mark Twain once dubbed it the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” 

The Waimea Canyon State Park rises some 4,000 feet above sea level and encompasses nearly 1,900 acres of towering cliffs lined with red-coloured basalt rock and green-hued vegetation. The best way to soak up the marvelous scenery is to drive up Kokee Road and stop at several vistas, including the Kalalau, Puuokila and Waimea Canyon lookouts.

After driving through the Canyon, we retraced our route back along the Kaumuali Highway and stopped for a fabulous lunch of fresh fish and local beer at Keoki’s Paradise in the seaside town of Poipu on the south coast of Kauai. It proved to be a great place to stop because Poipu is home to a stretch of beautiful sand beaches as well as a series of blowholes in nearby Spouting Horn Park which can send streams of sea water soaring into the air when seas are stormy.

The beaches around Poipu are ideal because they offer something for everyone including gentle wading pools at Poipu Beach Park, snorkeling at Longhouse Beach, bodysurfing at Bennecke’s Beach and boogie boarding at Shipwreck Beach. In fact, some travel pundits rate the area’s beaches as among the best in all of the United States.

We had an amazing time swimming and tanning at beautiful Brennecke’s Beach, but eventually had to fold up our towels and head back to Nawiliwili Bay before our ship departed at 5:00 pm.

As we watched the lush green mountains and golden beaches of Kauai fade into the sunset from the comfort of our balcony cabin, we felt a twinge of regret. We had just experienced a slice of Hawaii that was as beautiful, majestic and natural as a Pacific paradise could be. But our stunning Garden Isle would soon be nothing more than a tiny spire left behind in our ship’s foamy wake.

 

The happy sounds of ukulele music filled the warm morning air as the Golden Princess sailed into beautiful Honolulu Harbor. At the end of the pier we could see the source of our musical welcome – dancers in grass skirts were waving “Aloha” while singing local ballads and doing the hula. After 4 ½ days at sea en route from Los Angeles, it was the perfect introduction to Oahu and our first port of call in the Hawaiian Islands. 

Oahu, like the rest of Hawaii, was settled by western Polynesians who crossed the Pacific in doubled-hulled canoes from islands like the Marquesas, Bora Bora and Tahiti as early as 300 AD. When British explorer Captain James Cook arrived in 1778, he found an agrarian society governed by numerous chiefs where religion played a major role. One of the ways ancient Hawaiians showed respect for their gods and goddesses was through the hula dance, various forms of which were performed as prayers. 

Called “The Gathering Place” ever since Hawaii’s royal families assembled here, Oahu is the third largest and most populated of the 19 islands and atolls in the Hawaiian archipelago. Like its sister islands, Oahu sits on the exposed peak of a submerged mountain range than runs across a hot spot in the earth’s crust. Since there is so much to see and do on Oahu, we decided to rent a car and get to as many of the major attractions as possible.  

We made our first stop at nearby Pearl Harbor, the site of the Japanese sneak attack on America’s key naval base in the Pacific on December 7, 1941. There are several things to see in Pearl Harbor, including the USS Bowfin submarine museum, and the USS Missouri, the battleship upon which the Japanese signed the terms of surrender to conclude the Pacific war. But the main attraction is the Arizona Memorial, the white structure that straddles the wreck of the battleship that bears its name. 

It’s best to arrive at Pearl Harbor early, because while tickets to the Arizona Memorial are free, they get handed out starting at 7:30 am and are often gone by noon. In addition, the tickets are given out in small allotments for various tour times that start anywhere from 15 minutes to three hours later, depending on demand.

 After spending a few hours at Pearl Harbor, we drove through the island’s central plain on the Kamehameha Highway between the Waianae and Koolau mountain ranges towards Waimea Bay on the north shore. Along the way, we stopped at the pineapple kingdom’s version of Disney Land, the Dole Plantation, where we found the world’s largest maze, toured the grounds on the Pineapple Express Train, and sampled pineapple-flavoured treats including whipped ice cream and pineapple upside-down cake. There are also some life-size pineapple cut-outs that are are fun to pose in for family photos. 

By now we were getting hungry, so we drove further north to the pretty coastal town of Haleiwa where we stopped at Jameson’s by the Sea for a lunch of fresh Mahi and Opakapaka. As we sat on the restaurant’s charming wooden patio overlooking the water, cars filled with weekend surfers made their way past us on their way to nearby Haleiwa Alii Beach Park and Waimea Bay.  

Popularized by the old Beach Boys song “Surfin’ USA.,” Waimea Bay is home to some of the world’s best surfing, especially in winter when giant 30-foot waves come crashing ashore from storms created in places as far away as Alaska. We were lucky enough to be in town during an international surfing competition, and got to see some of the world’s best big-wave surfers take some fantastic rides. 

It was now early afternoon, so we got back on the Kamehameha Highway and headed southwest to the Polynesian Cultural Center near Kahuku.  Founded in 1963 and still run by the Mormon Church, the 42-acre centre showcases the traditions of Polynesia including tribal tattooing, fire dancing and ancient customs. At night, the center hosts the best luau on the island complete with fire-pit roasted pig, and traditional Hawaiian entertainment. However, if your schedule doesn’t permit a late evening outing, most cruise ships offer excursions that include a buffet-style lunch version of the luau.  

By now it was getting late, so we got back on the highway and headed for Honolulu where we had to return our rental car before 6:00 pm. Luckily, our ship wasn’t leaving town until 11:00 pm, so after returning the car, we made our way to nearby Waikiki for sunset cocktails and dinner at Hula’s Grill in the Outrigger Hotel. We were seated on the grill’s balcony patio, which overlooks beautiful Mamala Bay and a spectacular section of Waikiki Beach that stretches from Diamond Head Crater to the tony Ala Wai Yacht Harbor.  

After dinner, we watched Honolulu’s Thanksgiving Day parade complete with Hawaiian-style Santa Claus before returning to our ship at the Aloha Tower Marketplace. It had been a long day, and we had barely scratched the surface in terms of what Oahu and Honolulu had to offer us. But we had seen enough to know that we would return again to experience more of this Hawaiian paradise – and next time, for a much longer stay.

We arrived in San Pedro (the port for Los Angeles) early Sunday afternoon where we boarded the Golden Princess to begin our 14-day return voyage to the Hawaiian Islands. Rather than fly directly to Hawaii and take a seven-day inter-island cruise from Honolulu, we had decided to make the voyage the old-fashioned way: sailing from the west coast of America across the Pacific Ocean for 4 ½ days in each direction. Compared to 5 1/2 hours aboard a cramped airplane, it just seemed like a more romantic and relaxing way to reach our Polynesian Paradise. And three days into our voyage, that’s exactly how it’s been. 

Despite some lumpy seas and unusually cool weather during our first day at sea, the seven-foot waves have disappeared, the sun has returned, and the pool deck is once again filled with pasty-faced travelers working on their tan. In addition, we’ve now had several sea days to explore the ship and discover how much our floating palace has to offer in the way of dining, entertainment and relaxation. 

So while the unlucky souls on their way to Hawaii by airplane have been sitting in cramped seats, eating tasteless food, and fighting their way to the washroom, we’ve been relaxing on our ocean-view balcony, dining in fabulous restaurants, enjoying exotic spa treatments and being entertained by a talented troupe of dancers and singers each night. And while we have yet to try our luck in the casino or take a hula dancing lesson, we’ll have plenty of time for that and many other things by the time we reach Honolulu. 

That’s why large ships are so popular for ocean-going crossings – there’s so much to do that it’s almost impossible to experience every one of the ship’s amenities before the voyage is over.  For example, the 2,600-passenger Golden Princess has three show lounges, more than a dozen bars, four pools including one with a swim-against current,  a nine-hole putting course, a sports court, the largest casino afloat, and a full resort-style health spa and gymnasium. It also offers plenty of choices for dining including three dining rooms, two specialty restaurants, a pizzeria, an outdoor grill, and 24-hour room service. 

So while we’ve only been on the ship for three days, here’s what we and our friends Randy and Noreen from Saskatchewan who are cruising with us have managed to do so far: 

* Take four treatments in the Lotus Spa, including a Lime and Ginger Salt Scrub, a facial, Swedish massage and hair cuts for formal night; 

* Eat in five different restaurants including the Bernini Personal Choice Dining Room for dinner, the Crown Grill for the British Pub Lunch, the Canaletto Main Dining room for traditional lunch, the Horizon Court for buffet lunch, and the Crown Grill for dinner of steaks and lobster; 

* Work out in the gym and enjoy the fresh ocean air while walking laps of the ship on the Promenade Deck; 

* Attend the Maitre D’s Wine Club, a 90-minute wine lecture and tasting with canapés and great wines including Veuve Cliquot Champagne and Opus One Cabernet Sauvignon; 

* Soak up the sun by the pool and watch a Hollywood flick at the outdoor Movies “Under the Stars” cinema (we saw Marley and Me, sniff, sniff); 

* Stroll through the shops and boutiques in the three-storey atrium area and pick up some duty-free wine and jewelry;

 * Sip cocktails and listen to live music in several bars including the Wheelhouse, the Explorers’ Club, and the Promenade Bar;

 * Nibble on pre-dinner snacks of sushi and tapas at the Vines Wine Bar;

* Danced at the Vista Lounge and Skywalker’s Disco overlooking the stern; and, 

* Dressed up in our best duds for the Captain’s Formal Welcome Party where we drank from a champagne waterfall.  

If you’re starting to think that all this luxury and comfort must cost a pretty penny, think again: the fare for our 14-day cruise in a balcony cabin was just US$1,900 per person, or less than the cost of a business-class airplane ticket to Hawaii. And while we would already be in Hawaii by now if we flown, just think of all the fun and enjoyment we would have missed along the way.