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The early morning light began to flood the graceful Gothic spires and narrow streets of Barcelona’s old quarter as the Emerald Princess gently slipped into its berth. We had arrived in the glorious capital of Spain’s Catalan region, a city overflowing with inspiring art, architecture and history from both the medieval and modern eras.

Catalonia united with the Kingdom of Aragon in the 12^th century, and became part of Spain in 1469 with the marriage of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. But while Catalans are part of Spain, their treasured city of Barcelona is decidedly different, especially when it comes to culture and style.

Since Barcelona is an excellent city for walking, we decided to see as much as we could on foot before taking the HOHO (Hop On, Hop Off) tourist bus to sights that were further afield. The bus offers three different routes around the city and stops at 44 different attractions – a great value for only 20 Euros.

We began by walking along a wide, tree-lined avenue called “Las Ramblas,” which French writer Victor Hugo once called “the most beautiful street in the world.” Las Ramblas is a lively pedestrian-only promenade filled with street performers, human statues, artists, cafes, newspaper stands, flower shops and cages of singing birds.  It starts near the cruise ship docks, runs straight up to the chic shopping area of Placa de Catalunya, and contains several landmarks including the Gran Teatre del Liceu opera house and Antoni Gaudi’s “modernista” apartment building known as Palau Guell.

About half way up Las Ramblas we took a right turn into the heart of the city’s old Gothic quarter. The “Barri Gotic” is a warren of weathered, narrow streets and old buildings from Barcelona’s golden era of growth between the 13^th to 15^th centuries. While there are several grand buildings to see including the 600 year-old Catedral de Barcelona and the medieval palace of the Placa del Rei, it’s just as much fun to get lost while you wander through cobblestoned alleys looking up at gothic spires, ancient towers and stone gargoyles.

Since all this walking had made us hungry, we decided to stop for lunch on the patio of “Taller de Tapas,” a small restaurant west of Las Ramblas on Rambla Catalunya. We ordered a variety of delicious tapas including sizzling prawns with garlic and chili, roast Galician ham with smoked paprika, and grilled farmhouse foie-gras sausage with white beans, all washed down with a wonderful bottle of Rioja red wine. 

With appetites satisfied, we boarded the HOHO tourist bus at Placa de Catalunya and got off a few stops later at the Casa Mila, better known as La Pedrera (the stone quarry). The Case Mila is one of the magnificent private residences that Barcelona’s elite decided to build in the exclusive L’Eixample area of the city near the beginning of the 20^th century. Designed by Antoni Gaudi, the granite building is arguably one of the most refined examples of his “modernista” style, with intricate iron balconies, chimneys and ventilation shafts that look like aliens (including one with glass champagne bottles), and a spectacular inner courtyard. 

Our next stop was La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi’s monumental and still unfinished cathedral, which is easily Barcelona’s most remarkable structure. Started in 1882, the Gothic-inspired design features four soaring bell towers, which rise from the Façade of the Nativity. The façade resembles a wall of molten wax filled with detailed figurines of the Holy Family celebrating the birth of Christ.

We were beginning to run short of time when we left the cathedral, so we decided to stay on the bus for last hour of its route and take in the sights from the top deck of our coach.  While we only managed glimpses of the some of the remaining landmarks like Park Guell and the Placa d’Espana, we had still seen enough to be totally captivated by Barcelona’s unique beauty, culture and style.  

The warm October sun was shining brightly as we arrived in the French port of Cannes, home to one of the biggest film festivals in the world, and a venerable playground for the rich and famous.

However, much to my wife’s chagrin, we hadn’t come here to rub shoulders with stars like Tom Cruise and Brat Pitt, or to stroll along the sparkling Boulevard de la Croisette in search of diamonds and designer fashions. Instead, we had chosen to explore the nearby medieval village of Saint-Paul de Vence further along the coast to the east. (My credit card was grateful!)

If getting somewhere is half the fun, then the bus trip through Cannes – which is known as the “crown jewel of the French Riviera” — was an excursion in itself.  As we watched from the windows of our coach, we rolled past street after street lined with exclusive boutiques, spreading palm trees, trendy bistros and swanky casinos. And despite the onset of fall, the city’s toney yacht clubs were still packed with beautiful people and their gigantic yachts. Even in off season, this place puts a capital “C” in the word “Chic!”

Eventually, our bus climbed into the interior and we caught a glimpse of the French Riviera’s other jewel – the magnificent village of Saint-Paul de Vence. Perched on a rocky outcrop some 180 metres above sea level, Saint-Paul is framed by the foothills of the Alps and surrounded by thick medieval walls. The streets of village are so narrow and hilly that it can be explored only on foot, so our coach dropped us off near the Chapel of Sainte-Claire and we entered the town through an opening in its fortified walls known as the Porte de Vence.

We learned that Saint-Paul dates back to the Iron Age (circa 1000 BC), and has had to defend itself from various foes over the centuries, including the Saracens in the 10^th century. This eventually resulted in the construction of a castle, of which only the dungeons remain, and a wide, enclosing fortified wall. 

Today, the medieval town is mainly a colony for artists and a haven for tourists, who are drawn to Saint-Paul by its beautiful location, wonderful Provencal sunlight, and splendid views of the surrounding countryside. A rabbit warren of narrow, twisting cobblestone streets, pictureseque archways and stone staircases, the town provides fabulous views from the ramparts.  Restaurants, cafes, art galleries, boutiques and modern statuary mix easily with medieval masonry and stone artifacts. 

After strolling through town, we stumbled upon the Grande Fountaine in a square near the Courtine St. Anne, where there’s an old public fountain and wash house built in 1850. Above the square, there’s also a quaint bistro, where we stopped to admire the view, sip a cappuccino and share a croissant au chocolat.

We wandered further into the labyrinth of narrow streets and eventually found the Museum of Saint-Paul, which opened in 1964 and contains works by some of the famous artists who have lived here, including Picasso, Rodin, and Chagall.  Then we walked down to the museum of local history, which has a wonderful exhibit by local photographer Jacques Gomot. He has captured on film many of the famous international stars who have lived in or visited Saint-Paul, including Roger Moore, Tony Curtis, Sophia Loren and Paul Newman. 

We had now been in Saint-Paul for two hours, and it was time to find our bus for the return trip to the ship. As we left through the Port de Vence, we paused for a moment to reflect on why so many artists and celebrities had been drawn to this tiny village over the years when the excitement of Cannes was just 45 minutes down the coast.  

We decided the answer could be found in the peace and tranquility of strolling through a medieval village filled with history and art that seemed far removed from the hustle and bustle of modern Cannes.  Perhaps the Latin motto inscribed on Saint-Paul’s bell tower says it best: “hora est iam de sommo suggere,” which translates as “The hours invite us to dream.”

After sailing overnight from Rome along the northwest coast of Italy, we arrived in the port of Livorno, which serves as the gateway for the magnificent Tuscan cities of Pisa and Florence.

There were lots of organized shore excursions for us to choose from, including a half-day trip to Pisa for $69, a three-quarter day visit to the Tuscan countryside and Chianti wine region for $99, and a full-day guided tour of the highlights of Florence for $179. Since we enjoy exploring on our own, we chose the “Florence on Your Own” bus transfer for just $59 – a good value for the 100 km drive to one of the most treasured cities in Europe.

After a 90-minute drive, we arrived in the “Renaissance City” and began our walking tour at the 14th-century Church of Santa Croce (Holy Cross). The elaborate façade of the church features beautiful green, white and rose-coloured marble, and inside the walls are lined with the tombs of famous local citizens like Michelangelo, Lanzi, Machiavelli, Rossini and Galileo. There’s also a statue and monument to Dante, but since he was exiled from Florence and died in Ravenna, he is buried there (although I’m sure the locals would now take him back).

From the Piazza Santa Croce, we walked west along narrow cobbled-stoned alleys to the Church of Orsanmichele on Via Calzaiuoli in the centre of the old city. However, we weren’t here just to see the marvelous interiors of the church, which include the famous “Tabernacle” by Andrea di Cione.

For day-trippers to Florence, there’s a bigger attraction next door to the church – a ticket office that sells pre-purchased ducats for “advance reservation” admission to the city’s biggest museums. These include the Academy of Fine Arts, where Michelangelo’s original statue of David resides, and the Uffizi Gallery, one of the world’s most renowned museums with examples of nearly every important Renaissance period artist. It used to be that long line-ups waiting to get into these museums made them impossible to see for anyone not on a guided tour or without an advance reservation ticket.  However, tickets can now be purchased in advance online at www.firenzemusei.it or by visiting the special ticket office. 

After getting our tickets for the 1:45 pm entrance to the Uffizi Gallery (14 Euro per person), we walked north along Via Calzaiuoli to the Piazza del Duomo and the Cathedral of Santa Maria dei Fiori. Built in the 14th century, the spectacular cathedral features a huge dome that used a revolutionary design by the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi, which was later copied for use at St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. The roof of the Duomo is supported by gothic vaulting, and its interior is adorned with a fresco of the “Last Supper” and magnificent stained glass. Outside is Giotto’s gothic Campanile (or Bell Tower), which stands 85 meters high and has a staircase with 416 steps. Together with the dome, they provide a stunning focal point for the Florentine skyline.

Next, we crossed the street into the Piazza Giovanni where we found one of the oldest buildings in Florence — the splendid Romanesque-style Baptistery. Built somewhere around the 11th century on the site of a former Roman palace, the Baptistery boasts an inner dome decorated with beautiful mosaics and one of the most famous sets of doors in the world.

Designed by sculptor Lorenzo Ghiberti and completed in 1452 after 27 years of work, the two doors feature 10 scenes from the Old Testament in gilded bronze, each one of them a stunning example of Renaissance sculpture. Michelangelo was a great admirer of the doors, and years later remarked: “They are so beautiful that they would grace the entrance to Paradise.”  They’ve been called the “Gates of Paradise” since.

It was now time for some refreshments and light lunch, so we walked west to the nearby Piazza della Repubblica for some great Tuscan wine and delicious wild boar pasta. In order to build the piazza in 1895, the Old Florence Market had to be torn down and its demise is commemorated above the huge arch overlooking the square. Today, the Piazza is a popular gathering spot for both Florentines and tourists alike because of its many open-air cafes.

 After lunch, we made our way past the 14th-century Palazzo Vecchio in the Piazza della Signoria, where there’s a monument to Cosimo di Medici, the Fountain of Neptune, and copies of Michelangelo’s “David” and Donatello’s “Florentine Lion.” In addition, the entrance to the Uffizi Gallery is just off the south side of the square.

Completed in 1585 as an administrative building for the ruling Medici family of Florence, the Uffizi is now a marvelous museum that houses more than 3,000 pieces of art. These include Renaissance masterpieces like Sandro Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, Paolo Uccello’s “The battle of San Romano” and Leonardo da Vinci’s “Annuciation.”

We could have spent all afternoon in the Uffizi, but since it was nearly time to return to our bus, we slipped next door for a last-minute visit to the Ponte Vecchio. The oldest span across Florence’s Arno River, the beautiful Ponte Vecchio was built in 1345 and features small jewelry shops that overhang the bridge. Above the shops sits the “Vasarian Corridor,” which the Medici’s used to walk from their offices at the Uffizi to their home at the “Pitti Palace” on the other side of the Arno.
It was now 4:00 p.m. and time for the drive back to Livorno. Despite spending a whole day walking around Florence, we had sampled just a small part of the great cultural treasures she had to offer. As we boarded our bus we thought, “If there is a more beautiful city in Europe than Florence, we have yet to visit it.”  

Rome is one of our favourite cities, but because it’s located 90 minutes inland from the port of Civitavecchia, it can be an expensive shore excursion.  For example, a full-day guided shore excursion by bus costs about US$180 per person, and the price for a half-day guided tour by private car starts at US$799 (for up to 3 people).

So how can the average family spend a day in the Eternal City without breaking the bank? If you don’t need hand-holding and can organize your own day, the best way to see Rome is to take the train from Civitavecchia, buy a guide book with a good map, walk around to the main attractions, and find yourself a reasonably priced restaurant for lunch. We did, and we’ve never had more fun in Rome for less money.

Our day began at 8:30 am when we boarded the ship’s free shuttle bus from the port into the city of Civitavecchia (most ships offer a free shuttle into town). From there, it was a short 5-minute walk to the train station with about 40 other savvy passengers, where we paid 9 Euros each for a return ticket to Rome. The trains to and from Rome depart about every 20 minutes, and the journey takes about 90 minutes.

Once we arrived at Termini Roma, we walked southwest along Via Cavour to the Colosseo, where we began our sightseeing of ancient Rome. Built between 72 and 80 A.D., the Colosseo was a remarkable architectural achievement for its time, and was in active use for over 500 years. The massive structure stands some 48m (157 ft.) high and occupies 2.4 hectares (6 acres) of land, and in its prime, was able to hold 50,000 blood-hungry patrons cheering for their favourite gladiators. While a great deal of stone and marble was removed after it fell into disuse, parts of the Colesseo are still intact, including a good portion of its beautiful façade.

Next, we walked up the Via dei Fori Imperiali to the Foro Romano, which was once the centre of the Roman Empire with its majestic buildings, homes and temples. Unfortunately, the ruins are not well preserved and today consist mainly of fallen stone, fragments of buildings, and a few arches. However, they are still worth seeing, if only to walk in the footsteps of the great Roman emperors and generals.

The Pantheon was our next stop, about a 30-minute walk northwest of the Forum. Built as a temple to the seven gods of Rome around 125 A.D., the Pantheon was a spectacular engineering achievement for its time as it features a huge dome with a 5.4m wide (18 ft.) circular opening at the top, constructed without the aid of any supporting columns. It’s one of the best preserved Roman buildings and has been in continuous use for nearly 2,000 years.

After leaving the Pantheon, we took a short walk eastwards to the Fontana di Trevi, which along with the Colesseo is probably one of the most photographed sites in the city. Designed by the great artist Nicolo Salvi and completed in 1762, the beautiful fountain features Neptune standing on a chariot being pulled by winged horses.

It was now 1:30 pm, so we walked further north to the Spanish Steps, strolled by the street market with the day’s catch, and sat on the patio of a nearby restaurant for some pasta and wine. Built between 1723 and 1725, the 136-steps that rise from the Barcaccia fountain at the bottom to the Trinita dei Monti church at the top, are named after the Spanish Embassy which was located nearby. After a delightful lunch (38 Euros for two including wine and tip), we ascended the steps, walked southeast towards the Piazza Barberini, and then jumped in a taxi for the short ride to the train station where we caught the 3:46 pm departure for our return trip to Civitavecchia.

Regrettably, we hadn’t had time to see St. Peter’s Basilica or the Vatican Museum, which we might have been able to fit in had we gotten up earlier, or taken one of the ship’s shore excursions. However, we had been able to see many of Rome’s most famous attractions, and we had done so at our own pace, and at a fraction of the cost of a guided excursion. Or as my wife Gail told me, enough of a savings to pay for that “to-die-for” Furla purse we found on the way back to the ship!

 After sailing from Venice around the boot of Italy, Gail and I awoke Monday morning to find the pretty Sorrento peninsula to the south, mighty Mount Vesuvius looming to the east, and the idyllic Island of Capri beyond the Gulf of Naples to the west. 

Founded in the 6^th century B.C. by the Greeks and conquered by the Romans a century later, Naples has long been coveted for its beautiful surroundings, temperate climate and large, protected bay. In fact, many wealthy patricians and merchants built summer villas in the region, including two Roman emperors. 

 While ports like Livorno (for Pisa and Florence) and Civitavecchia (for Rome) get more attention, we love Naples because it’s a great jumping off point for a wide variety of outstanding shore excursions. For example, Naples is just a short ferry ride across the bay from the picturesque island of Capri; it’s the starting point for tours along the spectacular Amalfi Coast; it’s next door to the cliff-side town of Sorrento; and it sits right on the edge of two sites that are nearly 2,000 years old - the amazing ancient ruins of the towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum.  

Luckily, we’ve been to Sorrento, Capri and Pompeii before, so our choice for an adventure ashore this time was between the Amalfi coast and Herculaneum. We were tempted by Amalfi, but at about $200 per person for the day-long bus trip along the coast, it was beyond our budget.  So we settled for the ruins of Herculaneum ($69 per person), which is like saying we settled for an evening at the Waldorf Astoria in New York instead of the Paris Ritz-Carlton. In other words, no matter what you do in Naples, you can’t go wrong! 

Now if you’re curious like us, you might be wondering what the difference is between the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. After all, they were both Roman towns near the Bay of Naples that were destroyed in 79 A.D. by a massive eruption of the still active Mt. Vesuvius.  

Pompeii was a large commercial centre of some 20,000 people on the south slope of the volcano.  It was destroyed quickly by volcanic ash and lava from the eruption, leaving little of the original city intact except for some stone walls, main streets, a few frescoes, and a handful of statues.  

Herculaneum, on the other hand, was a small resort town of some 5,000 souls on the northwest slope of the Vesuvius, and it was destroyed by boiling mud that slid down the mountain and entombed everything in its path under many metres of earth. As a result, while the ruins of Herculaneum are much smaller than Pompeii, they are much more intact and better preserved. In fact, some of the buildings still have their upper floors (a rarity in ancient ruins), and others have vaulted ceilings, frescoes on the walls, mosaics on the floors, interior features like baths, swimming pools, ovens, and toilets, and a few even have charred furniture. 

According to legend, the original town was founded by the mythical Greek hero Hercules upon his return from Iberia after performing the 10^th of his 12 terrible labours. The town was thus called Herakleion by the Greeks, and subsequently Herculaneum by the conquering Romans.

We spent 90 minutes walking through the ancient ruins, and then slipped outside with our Italian guide to one of the nearby cafes for a quick espresso. As we sipped our coffees, we asked Antonio why so many visitors to the region like us had always chosen Pompeii over Herculaneum, even though the latter had more to offer, was easier to navigate, and was far less crowded. 

“It’s only in the last 10 years that people have started to take notice of Herculaneum,” he told us. “Very few cruise lines offer excursions here. And since most tourists have only heard of Pompeii, that’s where they go.” 

We used to be one of those tourists. We’re glad that we’re not anymore.  

Next, the port of Civitavecchia for Rome.

After a couple of days in London, we arrived in Venice late Friday afternoon after a two-hour flight aboard a BMI regional jet. While short, the flight was a vivid reminder of what a good idea it was to return to North America by cruise ship rather than by aircraft: long line-ups through airport security, unpleasant check-in agents, departure delays, charges for excess baggage, charges for food on board, cramped seating with little leg room, and a new one for us, there was even a charge for tea, coffee and soft drinks. But at least the water was free!

Of course, another reason was the amazingly low, last-minute cruise fare of $999 per person for an inside cabin ($1,080 with all taxes and fees) for an 18-day cruise from Venice to Ft. Lauderdale. To put it more succinctly, that’s a per diem rate of just $60 per person for a travel experience that is head and shoulders above flying (even in first-class) in every way except speed of transit. And since we weren’t in a hurry to get back home, crossing the pond by ocean liner seemed like an elegant alternative.

We had cruised with Princess before, and knew what to expect – a premium cruise line with a great selection of cabins, good food, and a wide variety of entertainment. And while not fans of mega ships, we knew that the 113,000-ton Emerald Princess was heavy enough to handle a trans-Atlantic crossing, and large enough to offer a variety of things to do while at sea.

While we boarded our ship on Friday, it didn’t leave until 1:00 pm the next day so that passengers could enjoy an evening ashore and a daylight transit through Venice into the Adriatic Sea. We had sailed to and from Venice before, but always under the cover of darkness. Today we realized what a beautiful sight we had missed.

As the Emerald Princess slipped its berth and sailed into the Canale della Giudecca, Old Venice appeared on our port side like a beautifully painted canvas of red-tiled rooftops, grand churches, stone clock towers, and elegant palaces. From the top deck of our 20-storey ship, we not only had an unobstructed view of the Venetian waterfront, we towered over its ancient skyline as well.  

The pretty waterfront of the Dorsoduro quarter appeared first, with its charming trattorias, pensiones, boutiques and tiny bridges that criss-cross the canals. Next, we sailed into the Bacino di San Marco with the tiny Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore to starboard and the magnificent Piazza San Marco to our left.

 While it was a bit breezy on the deck of our moving ship, it was warmer on shore (18 C or 68 F) where crowds had already gathered in the Piazza to visit the Doge’s Palace, the Basilica and the bell tower.  Most of the gondola fleet was still tied in the Piazza’s basin, but a handful of boats were braving the choppy seas to satisfy clients who were likely tourists in search of that last, romantic canal ride before leaving Venice.

As we watched the shoreline of Venice retreat, the ship’s waiters came by with glasses of champagne to help us celebrate the magnificent views that a daylight sail-by had afforded us.  

As the “The Serene Republic of Venice” faded into our wake, we raised our glasses in appreciation of what we had seen, and in anticipation of what was yet to come. We still had 17 days, eight ports of call (Naples, Civitavecchia for Rome, Livorno for Florence, Cannes, Barcelona, Cadiz for Seville, Lisbon, and the Azores Islands), and a trans-Atlantic voyage ahead of us. And no doubt, more glorious sights, champagne nights, and memorable moments.    

Tomorrow, a day at sea aboard the Emerald Princess on our way to Naples, Italy.

 

We walked down the gangplank of the Pacific Princess for the last time, feeling sad that our wonderful 12-day Mediterranean cruise had finally come to an end. But as we left the pier and saw our water taxi waiting near the western end of the Grand Canal, our disappointment instantly turned to delight.

In front of us stood the glorious City of Venice – the centuries-old masterpiece of art, architecture, canals and bridges that rest on an archipelago of low-lying islands in a lagoon on Italy’s Adriatic coast.

The “Serene Republic of Venice” was established in the 8th century, some 300 years after the first Venetians crossed the 4 km stretch of water from the mainland to escape the barbarian invasions. The lagoon proved to be a good defense, and the Venetians prospered, becoming one of the most influential and wealthy societies in the world, and the longest running republic until its breakup in 1797.

As we motored along the Giudecca Canal in our water taxi towards Piazza San Marco, we could see where the Venetians had spent those riches. Peaking up through the red-tiled rooftops of centuries-old houses, there were beautiful churches, clock towers, mansions and palaces almost everywhere we looked.

“What’s the name of that one,” Sam asked me as we glided by a particularly impressive looking church that was undergoing some renovations.

“The Sacred Church of Scaffolding,” I responded with a smile. “It’s an architectural technique you’ll find all over Europe, especially when you’ve traveled half way around the world just to see that very landmark!” I wasn’t kidding. Gail and I have seen just about every great church in the world in scaffolding, including Notre Dame Cathedral and Westminster Abbey.

Venice is made up of six quarters (San Marco, Santa Croce, San Polo, Castello, Cannaregio and Dorsoduro), and it has a number of nearby islands including Murano, where the famous hand-blown Venetian glass is made. Since we only had 2 ½ days in Venice, we decided to focus our touring on San Marco, San Polo and Murano.

After checking into the Hotel Colombina on a narrow canal near the Bridge of Sighs, we walked along a series of narrow, winding alleys to the stunning Piazza San Marco. Standing in the middle of the Piazza, we looked in amazement at the awesome landmarks that surrounded us – the 11th century Byzantine Basilica di San Marco, the 14th century Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace), the Renaissance Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower), and the 16th century Campanile di San Marco (bell tower), which was rebuilt in 1912 after collapsing in 1902. There was quite a crowd waiting to get into the Basilica, but we discovered it thins out in the afternoon when the tour groups leave.

The next day we took the vaporetto water bus over to the island of Murano where we saw a glass-blowing demonstration and walked through the Murano glass factory. Unless you just won the lottery, you’ll likely find the prices at the factory far too expensive. This is where they keep the most elaborate pieces made by their master glass blowers, and there isn’t much here under 1,500 Euros. In contrast, the glass shops back in Venice carry less opulent, but more reasonably priced glassware.

After returning to San Marco, we browsed through the market at the Ponte Rialto where Sam made me buy a silly captain’s hat with “Venizia” stenciled on it. “It’s your Commodore Dave hat,” she giggled. We strolled across the bridge to San Polo and had lunch in a waterfront café overlooking the Grand Canal. As usual, we all ate pasta – Lindsay had the spaghetti pomodoro, Gail the fettucine with porcini mushrooms and shaved truffles, Sam the spaghetti with pesto sauce, and I had the linguini with lobster sauce – all washed down with great Italian wine and beer. A superb lunch!

On our final morning in Venice, we boarded a gondola for a lazy ride through the canals of San Marco. While gondola rides are not cheap (you have to barter for the duration and price, but it’s about $35 per person for a 40-minute trip), it should be on everyone’s “must do” list. There really is no better way to see and appreciate the glorious buildings, bridges and canals of Venice than on a gondola.

Later that day, we left the hotel for Marco Polo Airport by water taxi, which came right up to our hotel’s waterside door to pick us up. The girls thought this was really neat, and sat outside in the back of the boat taking photos of each other all the way to the airport dock.

Our vacation was over and we were on our way home, but not before we enjoyed a few final moments at sea with the glorious city of Venice in our wake.

(Next, I’ll be reviewing the Pacific Princess, the cruise ship we sailed on during our 12-day Mediterranean cruise from Rome to Venice.)

It was drizzling rain as our tour bus rolled along the 10 km-highway that connects Ravenna with its commercial port on Italy’s Adriatic coast.

Today was our last port of call before we disembarked in Venice on Friday, and we wanted to conclude our cruise the way it had began – with a family tour. Besides, after the girls’ had pulled the great tour escape in Split, Gail and I thought we should ride shotgun on this excursion just to be safe.

Once the capital of the Western Roman Empire, Ravenna reached its cultural zenith as part of the Byzantine Empire between the 6th and 8th centuries A.D. During this period, Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora built a number of Eastern-style churches filled with marvelous mosaic frescoes on their walls, ceilings and domes.

Today they represent some of the finest surviving Byzantine mosaics in the world, rivaling even those found in Istanbul. And we soon discovered why when we stopped at the beautiful Basilica di Sant’ Apollinare Nuova.

Built during the early 6th century, the church has beautiful mosaic frescoes along the walls of the nave leading to the apse. The frescoes depict the three magi and virgins on one side, and a line of martyrs on the other, in a combination of softly-coloured and gilded mosaic stones.

Our next stop was the Basilica di San Vitale, the octagonal domed church built in the mid-6th century. At this point, I was ready for the girls to beg off the tour with a chorus of “Please Dad, not another old church!” But to my surprise, Sam, who had recently studied these mosaics in a history class, was now providing a running commentary for Lindsay, and they both looked enthralled.

“The mosaic in the apse is a representation of Jesus Christ wearing a halo while sitting on a globe surrounded by angels,” I heard Sam explain. “Look at the beautiful colours of the mosaics.”

Next, Sam guided us into the nearby Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the sister of Rome’s last emperor, Honorius.

“The mausoleum was built in 450, and the mosaic inside is called ‘The Good Shepherd’,” Sam told us. “It depicts a young Jesus Christ tending a flock of sheep, wearing a gold and purple robe with a golden halo above his head.”

As we were about to leave the tiny mausoleum (visits are limited to 5 minutes and flash photography is not allowed) Sam pulled me aside and asked if I could take a photo of the mosaic so she could send it to her teacher. We waited for our guide to leave, and then snapped a quick photo!

We concluded our tour with some wine and tapas at a nearby trattoria, and then returned to our ship for a final farewell.

As all four of us sat on the balcony watching the Pacific Princess cast off from Ravenna, we raised our glasses in celebration of what been a truly memorable and fun family vacation. It had been 12 glorious days and 10 fabulous ports since we had boarded the Pacific Princess, and now it was over.

But we still had 3 days to come in Venice. And as Lindsay pointed out, a long flight home across the Atlantic with plenty of time to start planning the next cruise!

(Tomorrow, I’ll be running interviews with two of the officers aboard the Pacific Princess – our cruise director, David Bradshawe; and our Passenger Services Director, Peter Pratt.)

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